Triotar: A simple three element design produced for use in the early Rolleicord models, this Zeiss lens does what few three element lenses can do - offer reasonable performance. While not nearly as good as the other lenses, the Triotar still does well, particularly when you consider that cameras with this lens can be found for only $100 or so. Later coated lenses are much preferred, and it must be mentioned that some photographers find the softness of the Triotar very flattering for portrait work.

Zeiss Tessar: The classic lens for the Rollei, this lens helped establish Rollei's reputation. Its sharpness and resolving power are still widely respected, and the coated versions of this lens are excellent choices for serious photography. Depending on date of production, the 75mm f3.5 lenses may be designated "Carl Zeiss", "Carl Zeiss Jena", or "Opton-Tessar", but optically they are all the same. The earliest models use uncoated f3.8 or f4.5 Tessars. A late 80mm f2.8 version was the first lens used in the f2.8 Rolleiflex cameras, and is found only in the Rolleiflex 2.8A.

Schneider Xenar: Virtually identical in design to the Tessar, the Xenar has gotten a bad rap because of the Schneider name on it. This is largely due to people preferring the Zeiss name (a subject I will NOT get into), and not based on any actual significant difference in performance of the Xenar versus the Tessar. For all practical purposes, consider the Schneider Xenar the equal of the Tessar in all respects - which makes the less expensive Rolleicord models with this lens even better bargains.

Zeiss Jena Biometer The last Zeiss lens from the Jena factory to be used in a Rollei TLR, the Biometar is an excellent lens found in the 2.8C only. Like the later Russian Biometar lensesfor the Kiev cameras, the design is well respected for sharpness, color, and resolution. An excellent choice for serious photography.

Zeiss Planar A truly excellent design, the Planar lenses (both 75mm f3.5 and the 80mm f2.8 versions) are very capable lenses with quality that matches (and in some cases embarasses) the best modern lenses. For serious shooting, there isn't much better available, both new and used. The latest 75mm f3.5 lenses had a weak sixth element added to the design, but most photographers (and Rollei) admit there truly isn't much difference between an original 5 element design and the final 6 element design. The Planar is still used in the current production 2.8GX cameras, and now features Rollei's exceptional HFT coating.

Schneider Xenotar Surprise, Zeiss fans! The Schneider Xenotar was used first in the f2.8 Rolleiflex cameras, and it wasn't until the Planar design passed Rollei standards that it was used. In short, the Xenotar is an excellent performer similar in design and performance to the Planar. Like the Planar, the Xenotar lenses are widely respected for their quality, and a great choice for serious shooting. And thanks to the Schneider name, you can sometimes find these gems for a little less than their Zeiss counterparts, with virtually no difference in picture quality.

There are a few differences between the 'cord and 'flex models. Here's a brief look at the major differences, and what they mean:

• The Rolleiflex was the main TLR offering, aimed at the serious amateur or professional photographer. The Rolleicord models were designed as budget cameras for amateurs and those who wanted Rollei quality, but couldn't afford a full 'flex model.
• A Rolleiflex automatically sets the shutter when the film is advanced. On a Rolleicord, you must manually cock the shutter before each exposure. Thus, 'flex models are a bit faster to work with. Just as a side note, the earliest Rolleiflex cameras (such as the original) operates like a Rolleicord. However, the vast majority of 'flex models on the market offer the automatic shutter set, including all f2.8 models.
• Rolleiflex cameras use a wind crank for film advance. Rolleicord models use knob advance systems. The crank can be a little faster to wind, but for most purposes it doesn't make much of a difference.
• Late model Rolleiflex cameras are available with the better Planar and Xenotar lenses. The Rolleicord, in keeping with its budget status, was offered only with the Xenar lens in late models. Early Rolleicords have the Triotar lens, which is not found in any 'flex model.
• Construction quality of both 'cord and 'flex models is equal. Thus, if you are considering both a 'cord and 'flex, decide which you want based on the features of the specific cameras, and rest assured the quality of the camera will be truly excellent.

Rolleicord V:

• 120 film only in 6x6 format (35mm is possible with optional Rolleikin adapter set)
• 75mm f3.5-22 Schneider Xenar taking lens (coated)
• Syncro-Compur Leaf-Shutter in lens (1 sec - 1/500 sec plus bulb)
• EVS system - shutter speed and aperature are locked together and maintain a particular EV value
• Shutter and aperature adjusted by levers on the right and left of the taking lens.
• Shutter requires manual cocking
• Film winding by knob
• Multible exposure capable
• MXV sync - M is bulb flash sync, X is electronic flash sync, and V is self timer
• DOF scale on focusing knob
• ISO dial also on focusing knob
• Waist level viewer with standard Sports finder

Rolleiflex 3.5E:

• Takes 120 film, 6x6 square format. It will take 35mm film if you get a Rolleikin adapter
• 75mm f3.5 Xenotar taking lens, f3.5-22
• Shutter 1sec - 1/500th sec, plus B
• Shutter and aperture adjusted by thumbwheels. EVS system on thumbwheels.
• Film advanced by crank. Winding motion also sets shutter for next exposure.
• Waist level viewing, with sportsfinder and quasi-pentaprism for focusing while using the sportsfinder. You can also find a Rollei Prism for the camera, but expect to pay quite a bit - they are somewhat rare and collectors are often looking for them.
• Coupled depth of field scale. Change the aperature, and the DOF scale on the focusing knob adjusts accordingly.
• Bulb or Electronic Flash sync
• Shutter release lock to prevent accidental exposure, and multiple exposures are possible (selected by thumbwheel near the wind crank).
• Click Here for a photo of the camera.